Salient of diversity and
inclusivity in fashion industry
Sue Omar, 2020: Is Fashion Finally
Addressing Its Diversity Problem? Raconteur
The
fashion industry has been biased over the decades. The models usually portrayed
are white, blue eyed and skinny. As a result, the fashion industry has gained
backlash where it has been called out for racist advertising, lack of diversity
on the runways and across campaigns and a lack of cultural appropriation.
However, the Black Lives Matter movement has been crucial in creating social
awareness on underrepresentation and racial discrimination[1]. Fashion
industries have tried to incorporate diversity, but they still portray some
kind of ignorance. For instance, in 2018, H&M showcased a black boy wearing
the ‘Coolest Monkey in the Jungle Jumper’ leading to controversial debates
about the company’s intention. Chloe Pierre, Founder of wellness program,
opines that fashion houses need to be educated on the basis of inclusivity. The
lack of diversity brings out feelings of low self-esteem, where women and girls
perceive their bodies based on the beauty standards set by these fashion
houses. For instance, Burberry’s 2019 Christmas campaign included model Ikram
Abdi Omar, a Somali Hijab woman. Additionally, the lack of inclusivity has led
to a rise of black owned fashion brands. For instance, Fenty by Rihanna. These
illustrations mean that racial minorities have taken up their spaces in the
fashion industry, and created job opportunities for their people, thus
enhancing the spirit of diversity.
The
lack of racial diversity has been detrimental to numerous giant fashion houses.
These firms are experienced difficult times by missing the aspects of diversity.
The world is in unprecedented times, and there is no room for complacency.
Therefore, diversity and inclusivity are the solutions to cases of offended and
alienated markets. In relation to this, companies should change their cultures
and extend their representation to minority and marginalized communities. For
the case of racial diversity, firms must ensure the inclusion of black
candidates in their workforce and ideas from black communities. Fundamentally,
the redemption of the fashion industry significantly depends on diversity and
inclusivity, where all the audience feels accommodated and comfortable to
associate with a particular brand.
Mindless Magazine (2020): The Fashion Industry and Diversity. What’s the
Deal?
Fashion industries portrayed painfully thin
models, whom the average person could not relate to. As a result, women were
made to believe in a particular standard of beauty that was only seen on
television and magazines. However, the fashion industry has evolved
significantly of late to include diversity, in terms of race, gender, body
sizes and even disability. Fashion houses were triggered to change their old
tricks since the younger generations are their main consumers, and they are
largely inclusive and diverse. To make money and gain profits, these fashion
houses realized they needed to include diversity[2].
As a result, we have seen transgender models, models with skin conditions and
dark skinned women grace the runways and it has been exhilarating. For
instance, Caitlyn Jenner, who is transgender made the cover for Vanity Fair
Magazine in 2015. Winnie Harlow, a model with Vitiligo has been gracing the
fashion industry since 2015. In June 2020, Calvin Klein endorse Jani Jones, a
black transsexual woman to be a part of its ‘ProudInMyCalvins’ ads campaign.
These few examples show that the world I finally ready to embrace people for
who they are. Therefore, people should feel free to be themselves, as this is
the only way to ultimately enjoy life.
Changes in the fashion industry have made the
industry widen the knowledge through recognition of race, gender and
disability. It is made possible by the inclusion of ranges of body sizes. The
industry has reached a point where changes are inevitable. Contrary to the
older generation, the young ones are adopting a more accepting view and are
active in contesting antagonists. Therefore, is it a prerequisite for
organizations to adhere to social expectations for sustainability. Amongst the
expectations of society is diversity. Fundamentally, most organizational
changes are the results of societal pressures. Most of the brands are reluctant
to change with the fear of rejection.
Saida Dahir (2019). One Size Does Not Fit All. The Rise of Diverse
Fashion Models
Fashion Houses have often portrayed models
that look the same. They were always white, skinny and tall. However, people
grew accustomed to their representation of beauty and it bored them. They need
something different and something more inclusive. Social media has been used as
a tool to portray these beauty standards as subjective. According to a study,
young girls were introduced two dolls, a white one and a black one. The young
girls picked the white one because it was the ‘prettiest’. This shows the extent
to which we have been brainwashed by the set standards of beauty. Additionally,
social media has been used to pressure the fashion industry to be more
inclusive. The fashion industry has been blamed for the case of body dysmorphia
globally[3].
However, the ‘OneSizeDoesNotFitAllCampaign’ was particularly crucial in leading
to the adoption of plus size women as models. Plus sizes are sizes between ten
and fourteen. In 2019, Ali Tate Cutler became the first plus size woman to
become a lingerie model. These show that the fashion industry is headed in the
right direction. They are paying keen attention to the needs of their
customers. By doing this, they are also redefining the standards of beauty, and
creating employment for more women.
Society is more inclined now to fashion than
before. With people all over having different body shape and sizes, without
inclusivity fashion will fail to address its core business. Naturally, fashion
should be diversified. The audience expects to see the different taste of
fashion in the market regularly.
Therefore, for fashion companies, the challenge is not only
accommodating everyone but meet their expectation constantly. Moreover,
products need to be universal without any aspect of discrimination. For
instance, a firm concentrating on items generally preferable by whites’ will
find it hard to sell in a black-dominated community. Therefore, with the
diversification of sizes in the market, fashion will remain relevant in all
aspects of the market.
Faran Kentcil (2019). Calvin Klein Using Plus-Sized Models To reinvent
Its Brand
Calvin Klein has been at the forefront in
enhancing diversity of models. They owe this change to the comments and
opinions of Generation Z, who are more inclusive and diverse. Prior to their
inclusion, the company was undergoing a downward spiral. However, when they
endorsed Chika to pose for them in the spring of 2019, they started gaining
their attention back. Chika is a plus-sized black woman, who doubles up as a
musician too. Using Chika for their ‘I Speak My Truth In #MyCalvins’ made them
gain traffic in their website[4].
According Marie Gurlin-Merle the company’s chief marketing officer, engaging
and compelling campaigns are those that embrace diversity in race, gender and
also in experience and opinions. With the success of the campaign as by Chika,
the company has included more plus size models as part of their campaign. These
are such as pop icon Beth Ditto, who is queer too. Additionally, the company
has extended their diversity to include people with disability, for instance,
Kate Virginia who posed in her wheelchair.
Using
of plus-Sized modeling is revolutionizing the industry to think beyond the
traditional. To many designers they are used to medium-Sized models, and
familiar with particular measurements. Therefore, this development calls for
designers to develop a diverse set of samples. The designers not limiting
themselves in their comfort zone is good for the industry. Know fashion
industry can have different variety of products that is all-inclusive. Using
the case of Calvin Klei, the invention of the plus-Sized model is a reminder to
a fashion house that diversity should be included in the DNA of the company, as
the natural extension of the creative concepts in designing.
Aslaug
Magnusdottir (2020). The Time Is Now for Diversity In Fashion.
For
a long time, fashion has ignored its relationship with diversity and
inclusivity. In the same measure, there is significant negligence of the
evolution of consciousness in the fashion segment. There has been ballooning
momentum of customers demanding more insights on the garments on sale.
Customers are demanding transparency, seeking clarity on the status of these
factories and the environmental effect of the fabrics[5].
For instance, big brands such as Ralph Lauren provide QR codes enabling
customers to acquire information and history behind individual’s fabrics.
Fundamentally, a sustainable industry is fabricated by different people
originating from different backgrounds. Furthermore, the industry has
transparency cutting across all levels of its value chain.
With
the latest development of the Black lives matter movement, considerable
industries have faced more pressure from the customers to enhance their
practices and avail profound insights into the policies on diversity and
inclusivity. Subsequently, the fashion industry is amongst the industry with
elevated expectations and targets. For instance, during protests on the death
of George Floyd, some of the fashion enthusiasts criticize the fashion industry
for failing to fight and cartel racism and embrace representation. These
developments have been a wake-up call to the fashion industry to ramp up its
efforts to refabricate its approach to diversity and inclusivity. In a short
time, the industry has witnessed remarkable progress towards diversity and
inclusion. For instance, in September 2020, publications by the fashions
magazines have for the first time featured diverse talents more prominently
compared to previous years. Additionally, fashion organizations for enhancement
of diversity and inclusivity; has been structured and fashion organizations
have committed to the theme of the promotion of diversity and inclusion to a
higher height, without any reservations.
Generally,
fostering a diverse and inclusive environment is part of responsible people
within an evolved community. Diversity is not only good for inclusivity but
also a good business. According to McKinsey & Company, the study indicates
a clear relation between diversity and inclusion and performance. The results
show that companies that have entrenched ethical and culture varied executive
team are 33 per cent more possible to outperform homogenous companies
concerning net profits. The study connected the relationship between diversity
and performance to factors that include but not limited to a depth of
customers’ profound insight, improved decision making and improvement to
accessibility of talent. According to Frans Johansson, writer of The Medici
Effect, the enhancement of the performance enhancement diversity offers to an
organization is the most appropriate long-term factor that will encourage
business to increase inclusivity.
Thomai
Serdari(2019) Gucci’s Misstep: Why a More Diverse Fashion Industry Is the
Answer
Italian
luxury brand Gucci is facing racial insensitivity through its latest project of
an $890 sweater designed with a turtleneck resembling Blackfire. The
controversy has since renewed the need for diversity in the fashion industry.
The Gucci sweater has faced big opposition from the black communities to the
point of the company apologizing and withdrawing the product from the market.
This incident is a clear indication of the saliency of cultural fit. There is a
need for cultural sensitivity and awareness of different cultures in the
fashion industry. Since most of the fashion companies are not only serving one
region but myriad regions across the globe, for the brand to be global; they
need to be more sensitive in cultural fit[6].
The aspect of the company realizing cultural fit is best implemented with
representation. The inclusivity of diverse people gives a company a better
platform to properly grasp the culture within a specific market.
For
many corporate, the rigid structure has been their main undoing in achieving
diversification and inclusion. In larger fashions house the creative director
has all the powers over designs. Therefore, this element barred check and balance
undertakings to ensure everything are in line. Thus, they should be diversity
from the management to the subordinates. It should be complemented by employees
given freedom of expression without any intimidation. People are more concerned
and sensitive with issues of discrimination in the fashion industry. Social
media has given consumers and communities’ power to express their concerns in
case a company makes a blunder like the one of Gucci. Such mistakes are costly
to these organizations. They may experience a decline in profit because
individual team up to boycott the products. Therefore, for the sustainability
of fashion shops, they need to adapt mechanisms enabling harboring the needs of
all customers without offending the other groups. With diversity and
inclusivity, organizations are guaranteed friendly diverse opinions and
concepts that translate to longevity and prosperity.
Conclusion
The
fashion industry has become largely inclusive and diverse. As a result, more
people, women especially have been able to get employment opportunities. One
can only hope that this new adoption of inclusivity by the fashion industry
continues so that future generations will not have to be subjected to one
definition of beauty.
The
world is now more sensitive to diversity and inclusivity. With the help of
social media, it's a tragedy for a fashion house to offend a particular
audience. Fundamentally, customers tend to be loyal to a particular brand.
Thus, any discrimination scandal may reduce the customer base. Therefore, it is
only right for fashion companies’ especially big brands to change their mode of
operation. Companies should incorporate diversity and representation in all
their departments for a sense of belonging and diverse concepts. The designs
decision should not be left only to the superior creative director but to all
the workers in an organization. In effect, they will be concepts and ideas that
favor a particular market and concurrently not offending the other market.
Too
many people fashion is culture, way of expression and communication channel.
Thus, these aspects play a critical role in defining the future of fashion.
Fashion companies are expected to meet these expectations and even surpass
them. Though it poses a difficult challenge in terms of creativity, it helps
companies in defining their status. In a nutshell, diversity will assume a
company of its customer satisfaction and sustainability.
Bibliography
Dahir Saida. One Size Does Not Fit All. The
Rise of Diverse Fashion Models. December 20, 2019 Retrieved from https://www.raconteur.net/hr/diversity-inclusion/diversity-fashion/
Krentcil Faran. Calvin Klein Using Plus-Sized
Models To reinvent Its Brand. August 31, 2019. Retrieved from https://nypost.com/2019/08/31/calvin-klein-is-using-plus-size-models-to-reinvent-its-brand/
Magnusdottir, Aslaug. "The Time Is Now For
Diversity In Fashion". Forbes,
2020, https://www.forbes.com/sites/aslaugmagnusdottir/2020/11/17/the-time-is-now-for-diversity-in-fashion/?sh=6b1b16ef6dc2.
Mindless Magazine. The Fashion Industry and Diversity. What’s
the Deal? September 3, 2020 Retrieved from https://mindlessmag.com/2020/09/03/the-fashion-industry-diversity-whats-the-deal/
Serdari, Thomai. "Gucci’S Misstep: Why A
More Diverse Fashion Industry Is The Answer - Knowledge@Wharton". Knowledge@Wharton, 2019, https://knowledge.wharton.upenn.edu/article/gucci-blackface-sweater/.
Sue Omar, 2020: Is Fashion
Finally Addressing Its Diversity Problem? Raconteur
Retrieved from https://www.raconteur.net/hr/diversity-inclusion/diversity-fashion/
[1] Sue Omar. “The Black Lives Matter movement has
bred a new space for up-and-coming Black designers and has encouraged
publications and more prominent brands to be increasingly inclusive,” says
MaryAnn Msengi, Black British designer and founder of Farai London
[2] Mindless Magazine.
Therefore, like any business decision, it is highly likely that a brand’s move
to include diverse models is to ensure that it stays relevant. Over the years
we have publicly seen brands torn apart in the media because of their reluctance
to become more progressive and as a result, so many have lost consumer loyalty.
A brand’s goal is to ensure that they deliver what their consumers want and it
is no doubt that consumers have been desperate for this change
[3] Saida
Dahir, Due to the fact that the industry has always
been “one-size-fits-all,” plus-size individuals have been unjustly
underrepresented. The industry has always been known to put models on strict
diets and exercise regimens.
[4] Faran
Kentcil, Calvin Klein, once known for being a major trendsetter in youth
culture — creating often controversial waves with ads starring a 15-year-old
Brooke Shields, a skeletal Moss, a muscle-rippling Mark Wahlberg — is finally
catching up to Gen Z’s more inclusive, individual idea of cool.
[5]There is ballooning momentum of customers demanding more insights on the
garments on sale. fashion industry is amongst the industry with elevated
expectations and targets
[6] There is a need for
cultural sensitivity and awareness of different cultures in the fashion industry.
Since most of the fashion companies are not only serving one region but myriad
regions across the globe, for the brand to be global; they need to be more
sensitive in cultural fit
